I could be opening this write-up with a sweeping, adjective-laden lead evocative of tiki: this wild and colorful romanticized version of Polynesian culture.

It’s a vibe with water features and fire shows and a parade float’s worth of flowers, where elaborate, fruit-forward cocktails in fanciful mugs — bowls, even! — eat up dozens of shots in your phone and leave you wondering which to post or send to a friend to let them know you’ve been.

My first text about Roka Hula, sent from the parking lot to the phone of Matt Hinckley (one of our food

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